2012 Audi A7 Wheel Interchange

tl;dr

Your 2012 Audi A7 uses 5x112, 66.6 mm center bore, and M14 x 1.5 threads. Stock wheel is 19x8.5 ET32 with about 5.51 in backspacing, on 255/40R19 tires. Use the on-page calculator to compare any donor wheel to your A7. Keep inner and outer clearance changes small, verify hub centering, and test fit before mounting tires. Torque to the OEM spec and recheck after 50–100 miles.

Recommendation

I set up wheel fitment in a simple lifecycle: confirm baseline, model changes, test fit, then finalize. Start with your known OEM baseline below. Use it as the “Installed on (your vehicle)” reference in the calculator. Compare any potential “Wheels from (donor vehicle)” or your “Custom wheel size.” Aim to keep overall tire diameter close to stock and minimize offset drift to preserve clearance and handling. If an aftermarket wheel has a larger center bore, plan for hub-centric rings to 66.6 mm. Order the correct seat-style wheel bolts that match the wheel. Many Audi wheels use ball seat hardware, but aftermarket wheels often need cone seat. Never mix seat types.

Known OEM baseline for 2012 Audi A7

Notes: Some values can vary by trim or package. If your car differs, use the calculator to confirm against your actual wheel markings and the owner’s manual or OEM parts catalog.

Impact

• Offset changes move the wheel in or out. Too far inward risks strut or liner contact. Too far outward risks fender rub and added bearing load.
• Wider rims change tire sidewall shape. This can sharpen response but reduce clearance.
• Overall diameter shifts speedometer and gearing feel. Keep diameter close to stock for best results.
• Center bore mismatch without rings causes vibration. Use 66.6 mm hub-centric rings when the wheel bore is larger.
• Seat-style mismatch causes loosening or damage. Match bolt seat to wheel seat every time.

Risks and gotchas

• Brake caliper clearance: Spoke shape matters as much as diameter. Always dry-fit a bare wheel first.
• Inner clearance: Watch strut, spring perch, and liner. The calculator shows inner change clearly.
• Outer poke: Check fender lip and under compression with steering angle.
• Hardware length: Different wheel pads can change required bolt length. Too short reduces engagement. Too long can bottom out on the hub.
• TPMS and valve hardware: Reuse compatible sensors or service kits as needed.
• Torque and re-torque: Torque to the Audi spec from your manual. Recheck after 50–100 miles.
• Shop mounting damage: Ask for nylon head tools and careful torque, not impact guns on final tightening.

Next actions

Checklist

• Confirm your current wheel and tire markings. Compare to the baseline above.
• Open the calculator. Set “Installed on” to 2012 Audi A7. Enter your current wheel and tire if different from stock.
• Load a “donor” vehicle or enter a “Custom wheel size.” Adjust rim width and offset. Aim for small inner and outer changes.
• Change tire section width and aspect ratio as needed. Keep overall diameter close to stock. The calculator updates diameter automatically.
• Check brake and hub details. Plan for 66.6 mm hub-centric rings if the wheel bore is larger.
• Select correct bolt seat style and length for the chosen wheels. Do not mix seat types.
• Dry-fit a bare wheel. Spin check for caliper and liner clearance. Assess fender coverage.
• Mount tires, torque to OEM spec in a star pattern. Road test for vibration and rubbing. Re-torque after 50–100 miles.

Helpful tools

• 1/2 inch drive torque wrench
• M14x1.5 wheel hanger guide pin
• 66.6 mm hub-centric rings

If any value for your trim is unknown, confirm with the on-page calculator plus your owner’s manual or an Audi parts catalog. This avoids costly misfits and keeps ride quality intact.