2007 Audi S8 Wheel Interchange

2007 Audi S8 wheel fitment baseline

I steward risk first, because you pay for mistakes. Here is the known OEM baseline for a 2007 Audi S8. Use it as your safe reference before testing any swap.

Some trims or markets may list a different tire or wheel option. If your door jamb sticker shows other data, enter that into the on-page calculator for accuracy. Torque specs can vary by wheel and fastener. Confirm final torque in your owner manual or OEM service data.

Use the calculator on wheelinterchange.com to compare Wheels from a donor vehicle against Installed on your vehicle. You can also try a Custom wheel size and Custom tire size. Changing rim diameter updates tire diameter in the comparison, which helps you track speedometer and clearance impact.

Edge cases that often catch owners out

I see the same traps repeat on this chassis. They may look minor. They can become expensive.

• Brake clearance. The S8 runs large front calipers. Many 20 inch wheels clear by diameter but rub spokes by shape.
• Center bore mismatch. Aftermarket wheels often use a larger bore. Without the right hub-centric ring you may get vibration.
• Offset creep. Small offset changes can push the wheel into the upright inside, or poke past the fender outside.
• Thread seat type. The bolt seat must match the wheel seat. Audi often uses ball seats, but do not assume. Inspect your wheel.
• Spacers without hardware. Any spacer typically needs longer M14x1.5 bolts and hub-centric support.
• Load rating. Heavy sedan, high speed. Underrated wheels or tires can overheat or crack.
• Diameter downsizing. Smaller wheels may contact calipers even if the bolt pattern matches.
• TPMS approach. Equipment may vary by market and package. Direct sensors vs indirect monitoring changes setup steps.
• Stretched or very wide tires. Bead seating and rim flange protection can suffer, especially on winter roads.

How to detect problems early

Catching issues in the garage beats finding them at 70 mph. I use a repeatable check flow.

• Clean the hub face and center spigot. Corrosion can fake a runout problem.
• Dry test-fit one front wheel without the tire if possible. Hand turn. Listen and feel for scrape on the caliper.
• Measure spoke-to-caliper gap. A few millimeters may be enough, more is safer. Clay or feeler gauges help.
• Use the calculator to compare inner and outer position vs OEM. Watch inside clearance to the strut and upright.
• Lower the car and turn lock to lock. Look for liner rub at full lock and small bumps.
• Check outside poke with a straightedge held to the fender. Ensure the tread sits inside the arch.
• Road test at 50 to 65 mph. A shake that was not there before often points to hub bore or balance mismatch.
• Scan for TPMS or ABS warnings after the test drive. Investigate before long trips.

Mitigations that usually resolve fitment risks

There are practical ways to bring a near fit back into a safe fit.

• Use hub-centric rings sized 57.1 mm inner to your wheel’s outer bore. This helps recentre the wheel.
• Match the bolt seat to the wheel seat. Do not mix ball seat bolts with cone seat wheels.
• If you add spacers, choose hub-centric spacers and longer M14x1.5 bolts. Aim for thread engagement about the bolt diameter.
• Keep tire overall diameter close to OEM. The calculator will show percentage change as you adjust sizes.
• Favor tires with suitable load index and XL rating when required. The S8 is heavy and fast in some cases.
• Get an alignment after significant offset or width changes. It may keep the car tracking straight and protect tires.
• Balance with a road-force machine if vibration persists. It can isolate tire uniformity issues.

Helpful tools and parts searches:

• 1/2 inch torque wrench
• digital caliper
• 57.1 hub-centric rings
• M14x1.5 wheel bolts

Safe defaults when you are unsure

When risk is unclear, I keep it simple. Stay close to the baseline.

• Stick with OEM specs listed above when possible. That may save time and cost.
• Use 20x9 ET45 as your anchor in the calculator. Compare any candidate there first.
• Keep overall tire diameter near the 265/35R20 reference. Watch the calculator’s percentage change.
• Do not reduce wheel diameter without a confirmed brake clearance template.
• If the wheel’s center bore is larger than 57.1 mm, plan for correct rings by default.

If any value on your car differs from this page, trust your door label and OEM data. Enter your exact figures into the comparison for a clearer risk picture.

Checklist for the 2007 Audi S8 wheel swap

• Confirm bolt pattern 5x112, center bore 57.1 mm, thread M14x1.5.
• Verify wheel offset and width in the calculator against ET45 and 9.0 in.
• Check brake caliper clearance with a physical test before mounting tires.
• Ensure correct hub-centric rings if wheel bore is larger than 57.1 mm.
• Match bolt seat type to wheel seat. Replace hardware if needed.
• If using spacers, select hub-centric units and longer bolts. Confirm thread engagement by count and depth.
• Confirm tire load index and speed rating meet or exceed OEM guidance.
• Set torque to the OEM spec from your manual. Re-torque after 50 to 100 miles.
• Run the steering lock to lock under load and check for rub.
• Road test and monitor for vibration or warnings. Address issues before long trips.

You can push fitment on this platform, but measured steps win. Start from the baseline, probe the edge cases with the calculator, and use the mitigations above. The result is a confident fit that feels right on the first drive.