2016 Audi S8 Wheel Interchange

2016 Audi S8 Wheel Fitment Guide

Think of this page as a clear, safety-first walkthrough for the 2016 Audi S8. I’ll clear up common myths, show what’s actually true, and point you to quick checks using the on-page calculator on wheelinterchange.com.

Quick recap: known OEM specs for 2016 S8

If a detail you need is missing or varies by package, use the OEM owner’s manual, dealer parts catalog, or the tire placard in the driver door jamb. The on-page calculator will help you compare any candidate setup to this baseline.

How to use the calculator for the S8

Set “Installed on” to 2016 Audi S8 with the OEM size above. Put the donor wheel and tire in “Wheels from.” You can also try a custom wheel width, diameter, and offset, and a custom tire size. The tool updates overall tire diameter when you change rim diameter, so you can see clearance and speedometer differences in one shot.

Misconception 1: Any 5x112 Audi wheel will fit the 2016 S8

Why it seems true
Many Audis share 5x112, so it looks interchangeable at a glance.

What is true
Bolt pattern is only step one. The S8 uses a 66.6 mm hub, ET 35 on a 9 inch rim, and it has large brakes. Center bore, offset, brake barrel clearance, and wheel load rating all matter.

Implications
If a donor wheel has a larger hub bore, it can work with the proper hub-centric rings to 66.6 mm. If the bore is smaller than 66.6 mm, it won’t seat on the hub. Offsets that push the wheel in too far risk strut and upright contact. Offsets that push out too far can rub fenders under compression. Load rating should match a heavy, high-performance sedan.

Quick tests
- In the calculator, enter the donor wheel and check inner clearance change vs. OEM. A negative inner clearance means it moves closer to the strut or upright.
- Check “poke” or outer position. If it extends far out, look for potential fender lip contact.
- If the donor hub bore is bigger than 66.6 mm, plan hub-centric rings to 66.6 mm. If it’s smaller, skip it.
- Visually confirm barrel clearance over the S8 front calipers with a template or a test fit.

Misconception 2: You are locked into 21x9 ET35 with 275/35R21

Why it seems true
The placard lists one size, and the S8 is sensitive to clearance.

What is true
Alternate sizes can work if overall tire diameter stays close to stock and the wheel’s inner and outer positions remain reasonable. Offset interacts with width, so a small change in ET can offset a change in width. The calculator shows these shifts clearly.

Implications
You can explore 20 or 22 inch options with tire profiles that keep diameter in the same ballpark. Wider wheels move the inner and outer lips relative to suspension and fenders. Keep an eye on speedometer change and brake clearance as you experiment.

Quick tests
- In “Custom wheel size,” try 20x9 or 21x9.5 with small offset tweaks and watch inner clearance and poke.
- In “Custom tire size,” match overall diameter near stock to maintain ride height and gearing feel.
- Check for rubbing at full lock and over bumps after any change, especially if lowering springs are installed.

Misconception 3: Matching ET 35 means the fit will be identical

Why it seems true
Offset shows up as a single number on spec sheets, so it looks definitive.

What is true
Offset only tells you where the mounting face sits. Wheel width changes the inner and outer lips. On the S8, the OEM 9 inch wheel at ET 35 gives about 5.88 inches of backspacing. Increase width with the same ET and you add material both inboard and outboard.

Implications
If you go from 9 to 9.5 inches at the same ET, the inner lip sits closer to the strut. That can reduce brake and suspension clearance. You can recover some room with a small ET decrease, but that moves the wheel outward. The calculator’s backspacing and position deltas give a clearer mental model than offset alone.

Quick tests
- Measure current inner clearance to the strut or upright. A simple ruler check helps you sanity-check calculator outputs.
- Use the calculator to compare backspacing directly. Keep some margin for tire bulge and flex under load.

Misconception 4: If the threads fit, the lug hardware is fine

Why it seems true
M14x1.5 is correct, so the bolt seems to “work.”

What is true
Seat type and length matter. Many Audi and VW applications use ball-seat bolts, while many aftermarket wheels use cone seats. Mixing seat types can loosen under load. Bolt length also changes with wheel pad thickness and spacers.

Implications
Match the seat to the wheel and confirm proper thread engagement. Follow the torque spec in the owner’s manual to avoid rotor and hub issues. If you add spacers, reassess bolt length and hubcentricity.

Quick tests
- Inspect the wheel’s lug holes. Ball seats have a rounded profile, cones are straight-sided.
- Hand-thread a bolt to feel for smooth engagement. Do not force cross-threaded bolts.
- Use a quality torque wrench and re-check torque after a brief drive.

Safety notes and confirmations

- Confirm torque spec, alignment settings, and tire load/speed ratings using the owner’s manual or OEM parts data.
- Big brake clearance on the S8 can be tight. A paper template from the wheel maker or a physical test fit is worth the time.
- If anything in your trim or brake package differs from the baseline, verify dimensions before buying.

Helpful tools

• 1/2 inch drive torque wrench
• M14x1.5 ball seat wheel bolts - confirm seat type for your wheel
• 66.6 mm hub-centric rings - choose inner size to match your wheel bore

Wrap-up

The 2016 Audi S8 shares a bolt pattern with many cars, but the right fit comes from matching center bore, offset, width, and brake clearance together. Use the calculator to build a mental model before you buy, confirm hardware details, then test fit if you can. That steady approach avoids rubs, vibration, and hardware headaches, and it keeps the big S8 feeling right on the road.